As a rescue dog you have no idea what his experiences are in the field.All the training you would do with a pup could be used here,just go easy make the sessions short.Above all maintain your cool, you go off heavy handed it may cost you.A E-collar with a audible tone for correction and beeper to locate would work well. You don't know if he has carelessly over shocked before.If he is collar shy just put the receiver on him and forget it, let him get use to wearing it.In training use the tone to correct him. If he chases a deer or rabbit ,zapp him [start at #1]but don't say anything just look the other way.When he ranges out, a accessory beeper collar will help keep track of him .Zapp him if he gets too far out there or gone too long without checking in.You may have to turn it up to get him to responed ,then you can hide on him making him backtrack and find you [not to far from where he last saw you].Too much shocking can make them head strong so stay as low on the dial as you can so you have some reserve.Introduce the beeper collar slowly, turn it on in another room and leave it there for short periods of time up to 4 hours if you think he is shy.Most of all have fun with it ,you can have alot of fun getting to know a new dog.Remember if he does something stupid more often than not you set him up for it ,Have a laugh and start again.Hope this helps.

American Brittany Rescue for Brittanys for Quail. Ducks not sure.

One way I have found to keep my pups from running too far is to simply disappear if they get out of sight. That usually freaks them out. When they finally find me I give em a good butt-chewing too (at least). But this isn't a lab or a pup. Still, I'm wondering if maybe you might try the same thing on a bit grander scale. Get out of the rig somewhere where you can hide good and then have someone else drive the truck off after the dog duffs for parts unknown. Hide yourself (maybe in a tree stand?), wait, and watch. Hopefully he'll get real nervous when he returns and sees he got left behind. If he doesn't then I'd say he doesn't give a darn. Not a very good quality in any kind of dog. Certainly will make training a challenge. If he does get nervous and upset then let him stew till it gets dark then reappear and give him the raspberries. It's an idea. Maybe not a good one. I've never had to deal with the problem on that scale. Or perhaps an e-collar may be the only answer.

Yes,all those to test and reinforce his interest in birds. Get a whoa barrel to teach him to be steady.Just praise him when your done,don't let him get on or off on his own and don't keep him on there forever.

I have not priced them out for awhile,I have Tri-tronics Field 90 G-2 gear.Mine controls the beeper unit that can be bought separatly.
Innotek has another one I liked,but you have to set your own price point.Just look for one that carries a audible tone and you can expand if nessary.Really no point to a beeper if he won't hunt other wise you should just keep him within site so he doesn't harass the wildlife. Have fun with him.

I don't use an e-collar so have resorted to "games". I'll admit, the hide and seek method works with labs and I've only used it for pups. Pups are still insecure enough to really get shook up if they can't find me. Mostly, as you seem to indicate Mr Grouse, it's about spending a lot of time with your dog to get the basics down. That's why my dogs live in the house with me. They learn many of the basic commands (sit, stay, here, etc.) simply in the course of living with us. The bond and desire to please is also much stronger than if they're just kept in a pen all the time. Also, spend as much time as you can walking the dog. They can learn a lot of obedience that way.

have some of the great labs myself i agree with you that time spent in the field and blind early in a dogs life are the best thing you can do.