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Q:
i am a beginner fly fisherman and for some reason after a while of casting my flies either unravel or the just fly off the leader and i lose them. is it something with my casting or is it the knot i use (improved clinch knot) or is it both or is it something else? thanks.
Question by Toutrageous. Uploaded on August 28, 2009
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Answers (7)
One of the things that plague many new fly fisherman/woman is trying to muscle it out there. When this happens, the fly can snap on the end of the back cast, causing the fly to break off...think of the noise a whip makes when it cracks, and you can understand why the fly would break off with the quick change in acceleration and direction. If you hear that snapping noise at the back of your back cast, be more fluid in your motion, and hopefully it will solve this issue.
If the end of the line shows a clean break or is wavy and deformed then the line is snapping, as RobinHood described. Cut off the deformed section.
If the end of the line has tiny furls then your knots are probably coming untied.
I use the improved clinch knot and rarely have trouble. I use 5-7 complete wraps. Be sure to wet the knot before you pull it tight (helps to reduce friction and dissipate heat that weakens the knot) ... and really pull it tight. Leave a bit of the tag end when you trim, or as John Merwin pointed out a few weeks ago in the Honest Angler forum, might not even have to trim the tag end at all.
Regular flouro, by the way, doesn't hold the knot as well as mono.
And keep DEET off your fingers and the line ... the stuff eats it up.
Deeter had a video a few weeks back explaining to cast like you have a glass of water in your hand and you did not want to spill it.
Check out some of the FlyTalk blogs from way back and you'll find some good tips.
Good advice on the casting techniques above. In regards to your flies unraveling...
I have heard of fly fisherman keeping flies together with a tiny dab of super glue as well. If your flies are old and showing wear, you might add some life to them by trying it. I would recommend that you use a Q-tip or a toothpick to apply the glue, though. Anything other than a thin coating at the area around the knots will have a really negative effect on the performance of the fly.
Another suggestion that I have actually tried is to get yourself some thread (or you can start buying some basic fly-tying equipment) and do a couple of reinforcing knots to strengthen your flies. As a beginning flyfisherman, I often bought budget quality flies, and consequently they came apart pretty often. Doing a little doctoring can sometimes improve their life. You might even find a way of adding some features to existing flies that will make them catch more fish.
all of the above and remember your cast should start at about 10 oclock and the withdrawal at about 2 oclock, let your line reach full extention at the withdrawal though- remember the more line out the longer the pause at 10 oclock,this technique will get you 50 ft of line out if you want it.
I typically recommend watching both your forecast and backcast to ensure that you are loading the rod before changing stroke direction. Usually, starting your forecast too soon is the culprit. In many years...I have learned that a good fly cast takes only 40% of the energy you think it should. The rod does the work, not your arm. Try to lighten your touch, wait a bit longer, and see where she goes from there.
Agreed with MLH and + 1 for you sir!!!
Post an Answer
One of the things that plague many new fly fisherman/woman is trying to muscle it out there. When this happens, the fly can snap on the end of the back cast, causing the fly to break off...think of the noise a whip makes when it cracks, and you can understand why the fly would break off with the quick change in acceleration and direction. If you hear that snapping noise at the back of your back cast, be more fluid in your motion, and hopefully it will solve this issue.
If the end of the line shows a clean break or is wavy and deformed then the line is snapping, as RobinHood described. Cut off the deformed section.
If the end of the line has tiny furls then your knots are probably coming untied.
I use the improved clinch knot and rarely have trouble. I use 5-7 complete wraps. Be sure to wet the knot before you pull it tight (helps to reduce friction and dissipate heat that weakens the knot) ... and really pull it tight. Leave a bit of the tag end when you trim, or as John Merwin pointed out a few weeks ago in the Honest Angler forum, might not even have to trim the tag end at all.
Regular flouro, by the way, doesn't hold the knot as well as mono.
And keep DEET off your fingers and the line ... the stuff eats it up.
Deeter had a video a few weeks back explaining to cast like you have a glass of water in your hand and you did not want to spill it.
Check out some of the FlyTalk blogs from way back and you'll find some good tips.
Good advice on the casting techniques above. In regards to your flies unraveling...
I have heard of fly fisherman keeping flies together with a tiny dab of super glue as well. If your flies are old and showing wear, you might add some life to them by trying it. I would recommend that you use a Q-tip or a toothpick to apply the glue, though. Anything other than a thin coating at the area around the knots will have a really negative effect on the performance of the fly.
Another suggestion that I have actually tried is to get yourself some thread (or you can start buying some basic fly-tying equipment) and do a couple of reinforcing knots to strengthen your flies. As a beginning flyfisherman, I often bought budget quality flies, and consequently they came apart pretty often. Doing a little doctoring can sometimes improve their life. You might even find a way of adding some features to existing flies that will make them catch more fish.
all of the above and remember your cast should start at about 10 oclock and the withdrawal at about 2 oclock, let your line reach full extention at the withdrawal though- remember the more line out the longer the pause at 10 oclock,this technique will get you 50 ft of line out if you want it.
I typically recommend watching both your forecast and backcast to ensure that you are loading the rod before changing stroke direction. Usually, starting your forecast too soon is the culprit. In many years...I have learned that a good fly cast takes only 40% of the energy you think it should. The rod does the work, not your arm. Try to lighten your touch, wait a bit longer, and see where she goes from there.
Agreed with MLH and + 1 for you sir!!!
Post an Answer