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Pro Clinic: What to do When Your Dog Will Not Retrieve

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November 02, 2009

Pro Clinic: What to do When Your Dog Will Not Retrieve

By David DiBenedetto

Amateur trainers (myself included) often worry most about the holy trinity of gun dog problems—water shyness, gun shyness, and bird shyness. Oodles of manpower have gone into making sure pups never show any of these dirty traits. But often overlooked is a problem that’s more common than all three...a lack of a desire to retrieve. And like most problems encountered in the gun dog game it’s often the result of poor training practices. (For a point of focus we’ll zero in on dogs that are roughly 6 to 8 months.)

According to Mike Stewart of Wildrose Kennels (and breeder and trainer of Duck’s Unlimited Deke and Drake), unless you have the wrong brand of dog for the job, say a Golden that has been show-bred for three generations, you need to “look unto yourself” for the root of the problem. You may have administered a few bad corrections during a retrieve and the dog now thinks its safer not to fool with a dummy. Or, more likely, you bored the dog to tears running countless marks in the same cover—over and over and over again. Here are a few ways Stewart would correct the problem:

1. Sometimes simply switching up your bumpers will help spur pup’s drive. Stewart suggests anything from fire hose type bumpers to tennis balls. When Pritchard started to slack off and lose interest a few months ago I moved from an orange dummy to a Dokken’s DeadFowl Trainer and the difference was outstanding. I also began to limit the number of retrieves per session, keeping her wanting more.

2. If your dog still resists try sitting him at the top of a hill and bouncing a tennis ball down the hill. Keep him steady until he’s ready to burst and then send him off.

3. If the above tactics don’t work, it’s time to give your pup some alone time. Stewart will put a dog in the run for two weeks. He visits the pup just to feed and water it. Chances are, when you take the dog out of the run he’ll be happy to do anything you ask. But make sure you start your retrieves in a new area (not where the original problem occurred) and with a new type of dummy. And don’t overdo it.

In most cases, these tricks will reignite pup’s enthusiasm for the retrieve and hopefully he’ll never lose it.

If you’ve encountered this problem or have different solutions feel free to share. When it comes to dog training, the more ideas the better.

Comments (18)

Top Rated
All Comments
from pinopolis wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

great advice. it's important to remember that our dogs aren't robots!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from rampageingapes wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

Well those sound like really good tips. But what if the dog is gun shy? I used to know a dog (she died a few months ago) who would have been a great hunting dog except for the fact that she was terrified of loud noises since people used to always throw pop-its at her and set off firecrackers and they eventually made it to where if she saw or heard something that made a loud noise she'd run off. If you wouldn't mind then could you please post an article about how to cure gun shy dogs? I'd really like to know some tips on that since i might want to train a good hunting dog in the future. Thanks!

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Dave DiBenedetto wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

rampageingapes-- Preventing gun shyness is one thing...curing a dog who has it is a whole different ball of wax. Don't have space in a comments section to tackle that one but I can write about it in an upcoming blog post. For now, here's some scoop on how to make sure your dog doesn't mind the sound of guns...

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/hunting/2009/07/kaboom-introducing-p...

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Blitz wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

It's true. Some dogs will retrieve till they drop and others need a kick start.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from mutt wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

what do you do when your dog doesn't want to retrieve the bird? I shot a pheasant this year and my dog just stood there and looked at it

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from wilksey88 wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

Great tips, and I've used bits and pieces of them when I attempted to help train my dogs (really my parents' dogs). Besides using blogs like this, does anyone have any good source (books?) for starting from scratch with a pup?

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from bassman3-15 wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

The thing that I have found, in order to train dogs is that you have to be repeatitive. Repeat things over and over again, but with treats for the dogs in between so they feel like doing it over and over again. It works

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from kelmitch wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

Great tips Dave!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from Dave DiBenedetto wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

mutt-- Most often, but not always, a dog that won't pick up the bird probably needs to be force fetched. But this isn't something I'd recommend you try on your own if you're new to this game...I'd consult with a pro.

wilksey-- Check out this link for dog books. It should help.

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/hunting/2009/06/training-book

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from revots wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

My boykin Jeb is now 16 weeks olds. I have kind of been following Pamela Kadlec's book, Retriever Training for Spaniels. She suggest only two or three retrieves per session and several sessions a day. Anytime we pass the chest where the bumpers are stored he sits in expectation of me getting the bumper and goes bonkers if I pick it up. I guess this does not address the dog that will not retreive but so far it has worked to keep him interested.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from fisherman wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

I have indeed encountered this problem. I don't blame him because he's not from a hunting line but my Golden always used to sprint to the dummy, grab it, and wave it around and run away! Now he retrieves beautifully 7 out of 10 times about a month into serious training. He loves playing fetch now even though he doesn't have the energy of a pup. I have definitely made the mistake of doing it too much and making him bored. He is progressing nicely though. We are now working on steadying and real bird scent is soon to come along with a Dokken Deadfowl goose. At 7 years old he is living proof that teaching an old dog new tricks is not that hard if the dog is willing to learn. Then since he hates fireworks I still have to work on gunshots with him, but that should be pretty easy. I also like to get him interested in the goose hunting gear i.e. letting him sniff decoys and blinds etc. Thanks for some good tips.

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from mutt wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

thanks dave

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Bookie12 wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

excuse my ignorance here guys, but what do you mean when you say "put the dog in the run for two weeks"? Like an large fenced kennel or something? I like to give my pup some alone time as well, but leaving him in my fenced in yard for more than say an hour unsupervised is a little iffy in my opinion. Am I wrong? Should i let him out back along for longer? Thanks in advance for any advice!

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from WA Mtnhunter wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

I guess I'm just lucky. I have never had that problem in the field. My Lab sometimes will balk at retrieving a bumper after 3 or 4 tries. Maybe he thinks, 'OK already. I have mastered that, so what's next? This is boring.' When I pick up a shotgun, it's Game On for him, no foolishness, no antics. You could fire a bazooka over him and he will just be looking for the bird.

And I am probably the world's most inexperienced trainer. I just have a good dog....

I had to laugh on Saturday. One of the guys hunting has a GSH that seems to be a good retriever. At least he brags plenty about him. After one of the guys sailed a goose about 200 yards into the marsh and the little skinny dog came back empty, I unleashed the big black dog, pointed, and commanded "back". Away he went and came back with the goose a few minutes later. Got to have the right tool, er dog, for the job!

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from kelmitch wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

Im happy to say Magnum made a great retrieve on a woodcock on the last day of New Yorks season yesterday.
He flushed it out of a hedge row it flew into the field
and I was able to harvest it.I slept great that night
after reading this entry to the blog.I hope to get more
access to wild birds in the future and more great retrieves.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Dave DiBenedetto wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

Kelmitch-- Sounds like Magnum is having quite the year. Your hard work is paying off.

WA Mtnhunter-- Indeed, some dogs make us look like we know what we're doing.

-Dave

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 2 years 27 weeks ago

Mutt, from the picture it looks like your dog is an English setter (isn't it nice to read a post without dog name acronyms for a change). That is primarily a pointing breed but they will retrieve, although it often takes some work. I'd suggest working with a dead bird when you come home after a hunt. Younger dogs, and even some older ones, don't care for all the feathers of upland birds coming off in their mouth. So, I'd suggest you wait till the pheasant cools and stiffens up a bit. The feathers are less likely too shed. Also, a rigid bird is more like the training dummy. For this reason, I think it's always better to start a young dog retrieving ducks if possible (geese are too big!). Their feathers are stuck in them pretty good. When I first started hunting with my younger lab she was gang-busters on sharpies and huns in the early season but wouldn't pick up a pheasant later on. She'd stay over it or pin it down if it was crippled (and she could catch it - she was only four months old when pheasant season opened). Roosters were kinda large for such a small dog. She'd invariably wind up with a mouthful of feathers as she struggled to pick it up and then drop it. To remedy this I actually trained her to retrieve pheasants at home in the kitchen. She would retrieve her toys faithfully and she was nuts for treats. So I used all three tools: toy, treats, and dead pheasant. I'd get right down on the floor with her (she loved that!), toss her toy a ways and go nuts praising and treating her when she brought it back. Then pitch the bird but just a foot or two. Get all excited with encouragement. She got the idea very quickly and before the night was through she'd be fetching the rooster plum across the room. Still, in the field progress continued to be slow. She wanted to pick them up but got distracted with all that feathery mess in her mouth. But eventually we got it worked out after many nights in the kitchen. Key here is to never lose patience (especially with a dog that young). The dog must get 100% encouragement. Once they're in the groove retrieving with enthusiasm, then you can work on fine tuning things like more direct route or dropping it out of hand, etc.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 2 years 27 weeks ago

Bookie, the "run" is essentially a long cage. We called them kennels in my day. Concrete floor usually and chain link top bottom and sides. Starving a young dog of the attention it needs and deserves to mentally torture it into retrieving? I'm sorry, but guys who advocate that are ... well ... they won't hunt with me. I'd pick up my own damned birds before I'd stoop to that. My older lab is sleeping with her head on my hip as I write this. The younger one is in her usual position sleeping on my feet. That is their place in my life. As close to me as they can be. Not out of mind in a cage outside. I might send a pup to the yard if it's had an accident in the house but that's partly punishment and part to show her where to do her business. And it's only temporary. When we're at work the dogs stay in the house not outside where they can bark (if they barked) and drive the neighbors crazy. When they were pups and we were gone they stayed in the cage in the house but only till they matured enough to stop chewing stuff up. And I can't think of a better way to teach a dog to be noisy than to keep it in a "run". Never saw a dog that lived in one of those things that didn't bark its head off for attention every time someone came close.

0 Good Comment? | | Report

Post a Comment

from pinopolis wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

great advice. it's important to remember that our dogs aren't robots!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from kelmitch wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

Great tips Dave!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from fisherman wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

I have indeed encountered this problem. I don't blame him because he's not from a hunting line but my Golden always used to sprint to the dummy, grab it, and wave it around and run away! Now he retrieves beautifully 7 out of 10 times about a month into serious training. He loves playing fetch now even though he doesn't have the energy of a pup. I have definitely made the mistake of doing it too much and making him bored. He is progressing nicely though. We are now working on steadying and real bird scent is soon to come along with a Dokken Deadfowl goose. At 7 years old he is living proof that teaching an old dog new tricks is not that hard if the dog is willing to learn. Then since he hates fireworks I still have to work on gunshots with him, but that should be pretty easy. I also like to get him interested in the goose hunting gear i.e. letting him sniff decoys and blinds etc. Thanks for some good tips.

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from rampageingapes wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

Well those sound like really good tips. But what if the dog is gun shy? I used to know a dog (she died a few months ago) who would have been a great hunting dog except for the fact that she was terrified of loud noises since people used to always throw pop-its at her and set off firecrackers and they eventually made it to where if she saw or heard something that made a loud noise she'd run off. If you wouldn't mind then could you please post an article about how to cure gun shy dogs? I'd really like to know some tips on that since i might want to train a good hunting dog in the future. Thanks!

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Dave DiBenedetto wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

rampageingapes-- Preventing gun shyness is one thing...curing a dog who has it is a whole different ball of wax. Don't have space in a comments section to tackle that one but I can write about it in an upcoming blog post. For now, here's some scoop on how to make sure your dog doesn't mind the sound of guns...

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/hunting/2009/07/kaboom-introducing-p...

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Blitz wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

It's true. Some dogs will retrieve till they drop and others need a kick start.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from mutt wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

what do you do when your dog doesn't want to retrieve the bird? I shot a pheasant this year and my dog just stood there and looked at it

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from wilksey88 wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

Great tips, and I've used bits and pieces of them when I attempted to help train my dogs (really my parents' dogs). Besides using blogs like this, does anyone have any good source (books?) for starting from scratch with a pup?

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from bassman3-15 wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

The thing that I have found, in order to train dogs is that you have to be repeatitive. Repeat things over and over again, but with treats for the dogs in between so they feel like doing it over and over again. It works

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Dave DiBenedetto wrote 2 years 29 weeks ago

mutt-- Most often, but not always, a dog that won't pick up the bird probably needs to be force fetched. But this isn't something I'd recommend you try on your own if you're new to this game...I'd consult with a pro.

wilksey-- Check out this link for dog books. It should help.

http://www.fieldandstream.com/blogs/hunting/2009/06/training-book

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from revots wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

My boykin Jeb is now 16 weeks olds. I have kind of been following Pamela Kadlec's book, Retriever Training for Spaniels. She suggest only two or three retrieves per session and several sessions a day. Anytime we pass the chest where the bumpers are stored he sits in expectation of me getting the bumper and goes bonkers if I pick it up. I guess this does not address the dog that will not retreive but so far it has worked to keep him interested.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from mutt wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

thanks dave

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Bookie12 wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

excuse my ignorance here guys, but what do you mean when you say "put the dog in the run for two weeks"? Like an large fenced kennel or something? I like to give my pup some alone time as well, but leaving him in my fenced in yard for more than say an hour unsupervised is a little iffy in my opinion. Am I wrong? Should i let him out back along for longer? Thanks in advance for any advice!

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from WA Mtnhunter wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

I guess I'm just lucky. I have never had that problem in the field. My Lab sometimes will balk at retrieving a bumper after 3 or 4 tries. Maybe he thinks, 'OK already. I have mastered that, so what's next? This is boring.' When I pick up a shotgun, it's Game On for him, no foolishness, no antics. You could fire a bazooka over him and he will just be looking for the bird.

And I am probably the world's most inexperienced trainer. I just have a good dog....

I had to laugh on Saturday. One of the guys hunting has a GSH that seems to be a good retriever. At least he brags plenty about him. After one of the guys sailed a goose about 200 yards into the marsh and the little skinny dog came back empty, I unleashed the big black dog, pointed, and commanded "back". Away he went and came back with the goose a few minutes later. Got to have the right tool, er dog, for the job!

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from kelmitch wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

Im happy to say Magnum made a great retrieve on a woodcock on the last day of New Yorks season yesterday.
He flushed it out of a hedge row it flew into the field
and I was able to harvest it.I slept great that night
after reading this entry to the blog.I hope to get more
access to wild birds in the future and more great retrieves.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Dave DiBenedetto wrote 2 years 28 weeks ago

Kelmitch-- Sounds like Magnum is having quite the year. Your hard work is paying off.

WA Mtnhunter-- Indeed, some dogs make us look like we know what we're doing.

-Dave

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 2 years 27 weeks ago

Mutt, from the picture it looks like your dog is an English setter (isn't it nice to read a post without dog name acronyms for a change). That is primarily a pointing breed but they will retrieve, although it often takes some work. I'd suggest working with a dead bird when you come home after a hunt. Younger dogs, and even some older ones, don't care for all the feathers of upland birds coming off in their mouth. So, I'd suggest you wait till the pheasant cools and stiffens up a bit. The feathers are less likely too shed. Also, a rigid bird is more like the training dummy. For this reason, I think it's always better to start a young dog retrieving ducks if possible (geese are too big!). Their feathers are stuck in them pretty good. When I first started hunting with my younger lab she was gang-busters on sharpies and huns in the early season but wouldn't pick up a pheasant later on. She'd stay over it or pin it down if it was crippled (and she could catch it - she was only four months old when pheasant season opened). Roosters were kinda large for such a small dog. She'd invariably wind up with a mouthful of feathers as she struggled to pick it up and then drop it. To remedy this I actually trained her to retrieve pheasants at home in the kitchen. She would retrieve her toys faithfully and she was nuts for treats. So I used all three tools: toy, treats, and dead pheasant. I'd get right down on the floor with her (she loved that!), toss her toy a ways and go nuts praising and treating her when she brought it back. Then pitch the bird but just a foot or two. Get all excited with encouragement. She got the idea very quickly and before the night was through she'd be fetching the rooster plum across the room. Still, in the field progress continued to be slow. She wanted to pick them up but got distracted with all that feathery mess in her mouth. But eventually we got it worked out after many nights in the kitchen. Key here is to never lose patience (especially with a dog that young). The dog must get 100% encouragement. Once they're in the groove retrieving with enthusiasm, then you can work on fine tuning things like more direct route or dropping it out of hand, etc.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 2 years 27 weeks ago

Bookie, the "run" is essentially a long cage. We called them kennels in my day. Concrete floor usually and chain link top bottom and sides. Starving a young dog of the attention it needs and deserves to mentally torture it into retrieving? I'm sorry, but guys who advocate that are ... well ... they won't hunt with me. I'd pick up my own damned birds before I'd stoop to that. My older lab is sleeping with her head on my hip as I write this. The younger one is in her usual position sleeping on my feet. That is their place in my life. As close to me as they can be. Not out of mind in a cage outside. I might send a pup to the yard if it's had an accident in the house but that's partly punishment and part to show her where to do her business. And it's only temporary. When we're at work the dogs stay in the house not outside where they can bark (if they barked) and drive the neighbors crazy. When they were pups and we were gone they stayed in the cage in the house but only till they matured enough to stop chewing stuff up. And I can't think of a better way to teach a dog to be noisy than to keep it in a "run". Never saw a dog that lived in one of those things that didn't bark its head off for attention every time someone came close.

0 Good Comment? | | Report

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