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Photo Gallery: Fly Fishing 3,000 Feet Under The Earth
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photo: Ralph Cutter
A view of Borneo's Gunung Buda limestone massif, in Gunung Buda National Park.

Fly Fishing 3,000 Feet Under The Earth
By: Ralph Cutter, as told to Chris Santella

"I was part of an expedition that went to Borneo to explore Gunung Buda, a massive block of jungle-cloaked limestone that rises more than three thousand feet into a ceiling of clouds that drench the area in 300 inches of rain each year. Known by geologists as a karst formation, Buda has been assaulted by hundreds of thousands of years worth of rain that has carved deep fissures into its limestone flanks. From a caver's perspective Gunung Buda may hold the crown jewels of Borneo; and on the global level, Borneo's caves are on a scale unto themselves. As an example: two ranges south of Gunung Buda at Gunung Mulu there is the Sarawak Chamber, a staggering cavern three times larger than the Superdome where a 747 could fly laps between its stalactites.

"This expedition was going to be the third try at cracking Buda's secrets. The first was a brief scouting foray by John Lane and George Prest. With a minimum of time and equipment they found tantalizing leads hidden behind the massive piles of rockfall at Buda's northern base. Lane and Prest returned two years later with a team of hard-core cavers and discovered an astounding three dozen world class caves almost immediately. Unfortunately the close quarters, miserable tropical conditions, and driven personalities of the team combined to cause the expedition to implode in less than a month. Despite the social fallout, valuable data was logged and the discoveries set the stage for our expedition. For this expedition, John scoured the world for cavers with specialties outside of the strictly subterranean realm. I joined the team as its paramedic, herpetologist and fish biologist.

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For the last fifty years or so, adventurers and entrepreneurs have pushed the boundaries of fly fishing far beyond trout and salmon in North America and Europe. First came saltwater fly fishing and bonefish, tarpon and striped bass. Then the waters of Patagonia and New Zealand became hotbeds for adventurous troutists. Billy Pate and a handful of others realized one could tempt billfish with a fly. Soon after, salmon anglers discovered the Kola Peninsula, steelheaders the rich waters of Kamchatka. And a host of new species-from roosterfish to peacock bass to taimen-came to be viewed as legitimate fly rod species.

It's safe to say that with a recent trip to Borneo, Ralph Cutter has pushed the boundaries of fly fishing travel to a whole different level. A much lower level. Read through the slide show at right to hear his story.

Editor's Note: This story is an excerpt from the book 50 Favorite Fly-fishing Tales by Chris Santella, published by Stewart, Tabori, & Chang.
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