If the hook has a barb, bend it down. Place the hook in the vice and roughen the hook shank with a file. Coat the shank with Zap-a-Gap and then wrap thread over it. Next, I lay the nylon body foundation on the hook, looping it so it’s on the right and left side of the length of the hook shank—from the eye to the bend—and wrap that on with thread. Coat that with either Zap-a-Gap and let it set.
Photo by Chris Mueller
In the April 2010 Field & Stream, senior editor Colin Kearns interviewed Dave Whitlock, a flyfishing legend who practically invented flyfishing for bass and created some of the sport's most popular and best fly patterns—most famously Dave's Hopper. Here, Whitlock explains how to tie the fly that's fooled untold numbers of trout, bass, and panfish.
Tying Materials for Dave's Hopper:
Hook: TMC (Tiemco) 5263 (the best all-around size is No. 8 or 10)
Thread: Wapsi 140 Ultra Thread in Hopper Yellow
Body Foundation: Mason Hard Nylon (same diameter as the hook wire)
Tail: Course red deer hair
Body: Yellow polypropylene yarn
Hackle: Grizzly brown
Underwing: Natural deer hair, dyed yellow
Overwing: Speckled brown turkey secondary wing quill
Legs: Ringneck pheasant tail
Collar & Head: Natural deer hair
Cements: Zap-A-Gap and Dave’s Fleximent and Flexament Thinner
Photo Gallery Comments (5)
Dave's Hopper is a classic, and the fly can be enjoyed as a pattern to catch trout because it is a classic, BUT...
for efficiency of tying, and for effectiveness, foam, and rubber legs have replaced it as an effective fly. The rubber legs twitch in the water for a life like effect, and the foam floats so much better. Want to strip the foam back under the water as an effective presentation?...then it pops back up and floats again.
that fly also works on bluegill
This is a fantastic fly to use between hatches when there a a lot of terrestrials around between hatches.
This is a fun fly to tie. To maintain the original look but make the fly float a little higher I use an underbody of foam. I learned a lot from tying this fly. I learned to be patient and take my time when tying flies. I learned to make knotted hopper (and cricket) legs. I learned that sometimes less is more when using deer hair for the head. I also learned that as long as the fly is still in the vise, if your mistakes bother you, there are do-overs. I firmly believe that is why God puts so many hackle feathers on a saddle skin. Most importantly, I learned that mine don't always come out perfect but the trout, bluegill and bass don't seem to mind.
It's a classic that should be in every terrestrial fly box.
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that fly also works on bluegill
Dave's Hopper is a classic, and the fly can be enjoyed as a pattern to catch trout because it is a classic, BUT...
for efficiency of tying, and for effectiveness, foam, and rubber legs have replaced it as an effective fly. The rubber legs twitch in the water for a life like effect, and the foam floats so much better. Want to strip the foam back under the water as an effective presentation?...then it pops back up and floats again.
This is a fantastic fly to use between hatches when there a a lot of terrestrials around between hatches.
This is a fun fly to tie. To maintain the original look but make the fly float a little higher I use an underbody of foam. I learned a lot from tying this fly. I learned to be patient and take my time when tying flies. I learned to make knotted hopper (and cricket) legs. I learned that sometimes less is more when using deer hair for the head. I also learned that as long as the fly is still in the vise, if your mistakes bother you, there are do-overs. I firmly believe that is why God puts so many hackle feathers on a saddle skin. Most importantly, I learned that mine don't always come out perfect but the trout, bluegill and bass don't seem to mind.
It's a classic that should be in every terrestrial fly box.
Post a Comment