We ran another mile or so and entered the mouth of a slow-moving river bordered on both sides by mangrove roots and seemingly unending scrub. The tide was going out. We heard the smacks of jumping fish as soon as Willcox slowed the motor.

"Oh, this is good,-¿ said the guide, anchoring from the bow and getting out a couple of medium-weight spinning rods rigged with hook and cork bobber. He handed one to me, then baited and cast another. "Rig it up with a pilchard, put it as close to the roots as possible, and let it drift,-¿ he said. "I'm going to drop one downcurrent with no bobber and get one out on the other side. Fish everywhere here. Oh, this is good. Here we go!-¿ The back rod dipped and Willcox grabbed it and handed it to Joe. "He's on!-¿

Joe started reeling, pausing when the fish took line. I took my bait in, quick-stepped back onto the stern, and started looking for a net. Joe and Willcox were struggling to get the third outfit out of the way. A rod dropped in the water and Willcox clawed down and got it before it sank. Joe's drag started peeling again. Then the fish jumped--a tarpon, about 10 pounds. I hooted, Joe pleaded with the fish to stay on, and Willcox was giving urgent instructions and encouragement: "Tight line! Good! No slack! Bow when he jumps! That's it! OK, bring him over!-¿

We'd been anchored all of ten minutes, and already it was turning into the kind of day I'd been hoping for.

TIP: A 15-pound-test spinning outfit will cover most of your needs from shore. If you think you'll fish a bonefish flat, drop down to 12-pound test. If you're going to be casting to tarpon at night, go up to 20.