We’d just arrived at the first-ever Field & Stream Lodge in Bozeman, Montana, when my girlfriend, Bela, said, “Let’s go find somewhere to swim.” Bela’s always eager to spend time on the water, and I can't stand the summer heat. It’s late July and 85 degrees and sunny—a sweltering day by Montana standards—so I jump at her suggestion. We drop off our stuff, load the cooler with ice and drinks, and in 35 minutes are on the shore of Hyalite Reservoir, a 206-acre waterway just 12 miles south of town. Pine forests blanket the mellow slopes that surround the cool, clear water. The sheer granite crags of the Gallatin Range in view at the end of the valley. We set up camp chairs along a pebble beach, crack open a couple local beers, and enjoy the afternoon.
Book at Stay at the Field & Stream Lodge Today!
After lounging for a while , we take the Palisade Falls Trail, a 1.2-mile family-friendly paved path that quickly brings us to the base of a small waterfall that sprays down an 80-foot cliff of sheer basalt. The water darkens the otherwise beige rock. It’s another popular spot that doesn’t feel crowded despite it being the peak of summer tourism season. By the time we make it back to the Field & Stream Lodge, it feels like we’ve had a perfect day.
And it’s just the start.
A Legacy Brought to Life
Before grabbing dinner, we tour the property with Heather Ready, the lodge’s director of sales and marketing. Walking through the front doors of the Field & Stream Lodge reminds me of losing myself in the pages of Field & Stream magazine. To the left of the entrance is a "trailhead" with a map of the area and information about the hotel’s amenities; it reminds me of magazine's table of contents. To the right is the lobby, which the hotel bills as a “living room.” It looks like a classic hunting lodge, replete with wood-beam furniture and a fireplace with moose and whitetail mounts tacked above it. Old issues of Field & Stream are on the coffee tale. This is where plans are hatched, and stories are told.
The same attention to detail that the F&S editors put into an issue of the magazine seems to have gone into every detail of the hotel’s design. Everything—and I mean everything—is on theme. There’s the common use of wood, plaid, and antlers, of course but even the smallest details are outdoorsy. In our room, for instance, the pattern of the couch’s fabric includes fly anglers; a small black bear climbs the bedside lamp posts; and the “room cleaning” sign is made of wood and says, “Gone Fishing.”
The gift shop is one of my favorite parts of the Field & Stream Lodge. It’s just past reception and has all of the issues of the revamped Field & Stream Journal, not to mention post cards featuring classic Field & Stream covers. My favorite one shows the April 1960 Special Trout-Fishing Edition cover, featuring a rainbow trout jumping after so many Hexagenias that they look like stars, while a trout fisherman looks on dumbstruck, a cigar dangling from the side of his mouth. I grab a pack of these and peruse the other merchandise—a bunch of Field & Stream branded clothes and even a Yeti dog bowl. I wish I could buy it all.
During our visit, some of the hotel’s best amenities were still getting their finishing touches and weren't open yet, but I got sneak peaks of the indoor pool, which features a retro “Bridger Bowl” sign reminiscent of 1970s ski culture, and the "backyard"—an outdoor gathering space planted with aspen trees and native grasses. A large hot tub was being installed. Elsewhere in the yard, which is secluded from the noises of Bozeman’s traffic, are picnic tables and canoe-shaped fire pits around.
The weight room is small but functional, and its walls are lined with vintage Field & Stream’s magazine covers, mostly featuring people fishing and handsome hunting dogs. The hotel’s elevator is similarly decorated. I could spend hours looking at the old covers — but I don’t have time, with so many outdoor adventures I’d like to do.
“We’re the comfortable bed and hot shower after your day in the outdoors,” says Ready. “That’s our ethos. We want you to come, drop your gear and head outside. We’ll be here with hot coffee, all-day dining, and a comfortable bed when you get back. We welcome everyone, including their dogs.”
Fast Action
I wake up early the next morning to go fishing. Bela isn’t an angler, but for me, one of the reasons I was so excited to visit the Lodge was because of its proximity so some of the most famous rivers in the West. Within a short drive, you can fish the Gallatin, the Madison, and the Yellowstone. Other famous rivers like the Big Hole, the Jefferson, and waters within Yellowstone National Park are within reach for day, trips, too. But being here for just a weekend, I only have time to fish one place, and at the advice of the guys at Yellow Dog Fly Fishing, decide to go to the famed Gallatin Canyon.
A two-lane highway runs alongside the river through a dramatic gorge. I stop at a likely pull-off and fish an obvious pool. The morning bite is slow. I run a hopper-dropper rig and only hook one small trout on each fly. I head five minutes further up the canyon, tie on a streamer and fish pocket water unsuccessfully. Then I start seeing risers and spruce moths flittering around shore. I came to Bozeman during a tricky time of year; it’s just after the famous hatches fade but before terrestrial fishing heats up. Spruce moths hatch in the tops of spruce trees, making them an unusual forage item for trout. But after the moths pupate, they are drawn to water—and can get trout rising consistently when they otherwise wouldn’t be.
I tie on a small spruce moth pattern, which is like an Elk Hair Caddis, and start catching fish in a shallow riffle right away. None of them are particularly large, with most in the 8- to 12-inch range. But I can’t help but smile from how eagerly they strike my fly. As I fish downstream, almost every riser I cast commits to my fly.
By the time a string of whitewater rafts float down past me around 11 am, briefly putting down he trout, I’ve had my fill for the day and head back to meet Bela. We celebrate my successful outing with lunch at the Dry Fly Saloon, the lodge’s in-house dining and full-service bar.
Again, the decor is on point, with old rods lining the host stand, mini dry flies adorning the table lamps, and a mountain largemouth bass along the far wall. I get a bison burger, which hits the spot after a morning on the water. It’s juicy and cooked to a perfect medium rare, with crunchy onions and barbeque sauce. The fries are crispy and some of the best I’ve had anywhere. Bela enjoys a turkey club with fresh guacamole, and we wash our lunches down with Arnold Palmers. It’s a perfect morning, followed by a perfect lunch.
Home Away from Home
The rest of the weekend is a hell of a lot of fun, too. After a brief siesta, Bela suggests renting paddle boards. We do so and head up to Fairy Lake, which is in the Bridger Mountains north of town, just past the famous Bridger Bowl Ski Area. After that, we enjoy a night out on the town listening to live music at a dive bar on Bozeman’s main drag. Before calling it a night, we play darts and gamble briefly at The Honey Hole, the 21-plus game room at the lodge that also has a pool table, Big Buck Hunter console, and classic keno and video poker machines. The next morning, we sleep in and get brunch at the Dry Fly Saloon. I love how the server brings out coffee in a class Stanley Tumbler. After eating, we reluctantly hit the road home.
When we first arrived at the Field & Stream Lodge, I enjoyed the odes to Field & Stream’s legacy. But as we stayed there, the hotel was no longer just an homage to the stories and adventures of the brand's past—but the basecamp for our own future adventures. It's a place we'll surely return to. And, considering how much we love skiing, and how close the lodge is to world-class slopes—hopefully we'll get back sooner than later.
