There's a sheet-metal figure of the grim reaper that stands on a highway in the mountains just south of Muleg, about halfway down the Baja Peninsula's eastern coastline. It's an eerie-looking thing, a shrine to a dead traveler, with a scythe in one hand and an owl perched on the other. The owl's eyes are holes punched out of the rusting iron. You can look through them and see dorado breaking bait on the surface of the Sea of Cortez, 1,000 feet below.