Almost 40 years later that reputation was still intact, which convinced Mathiesen and me that we should give it a look while we were visiting the area. Lees Ferry Anglers offered everything we needed: a room at Cliff Dwellers Lodge, expert advice on tackle, and 17-foot jet boat rentals. Facing a tight schedule, we opted for guide service, an eight-hour trip for two at $350. Another option for anglers with more time would be one day of guided fishing to get the inside advice, and then daily boat rental. Minutes after launching, we were motoring through a landscape that left us slack-jawed, following the river as it twisted through the towering canyon walls painted a deep purple by the rising sun.