This dish–an early-autumn feast for anglers taking advantage of fall trout seasons–is adapted from Cree LeFavour’s “Fish” ($27.50; Chronicle Books), a spectacular new cookbook. “Trout, pork, and greens with the spicy bite of horseradish is a beautiful combination,” says LeFavour, whose trout-love started in childhood, when she’d hook browns from the Roaring Fork River right outside her front door in Woody Creek, Colo. Almost any fish benefits from the sauce and sides, filleted or whole.
– 4 whole trout, gutted and cleaned
– 1⁄2 cup sour cream
– 3 Tbsp. freshly grated horseradish
– 1⁄4 cup chopped parsley
– 2 Tbsp. chopped shallot
– 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
– 1⁄4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. butter
– 1 lb. parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced
– 3 sprigs fresh thyme
– 2 Tbsp. olive oil
– 1 lb. kale, rinsed, stemmed, and roughly chopped
– About 2 oz. prosciutto, sliced into long threads
– Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1. Make the horseradish sauce: In a bowl, combine the sour cream, horseradish, parsley, 1 Tbsp. of the chopped shallots, and the lemon juice. Mix well and set aside, or refrigerate if more than 1 hour from serving.
2. Make the parsnips: In a frying pan over medium heat, combine 2 Tbsp. butter with the parsnips, thyme, and a sprinkling of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the parsnips have colored and most have become crispy. Some will blacken in spots, while others may remain soft, which is fine.
3. As the parsnips are cooking, preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Rinse the fish in cold water, dry thoroughly, and salt and pepper the fish inside and out. If you have a saute pan large enough to contain all four, great; if not, divide between two pans. Melt the remaining 1⁄4 cup butter over medium-high heat (for two pans, use 2 Tbsp. butter in each pan) and, when bubbly, lay the fish in the pan(s). Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the skin is beginning to brown. Carefully flip the fish with a spatula, and continue cooking on the other side. Test for doneness by inserting a sharp paring knife in the thick flesh just behind the head; if the knife slips right in, it’s done. Transfer onto a sheet pan to keep warm in the oven.
4. Make the kale: In a large, deep saute pan, heat the olive oil with the remaining 1 Tbsp. shallots over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, add the kale along with 2 Tbsp. water. With tongs, gently toss the kale to coat it with the oil and prevent scorching. Once the kale is wilted, continue to cook, tossing occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the prosciutto, salt and pepper generously, and remove from the heat. Serves 4
From the September 2013 issue of Field & Stream magazine.
Photo by Johnny Miller_