The next day we woke up to the sound of a howling wolf. We fished all morning with no success, although the previous evening one of the older guys had landed a couple lake trout. Our plan was to leave for Dismal Lake that afternoon but by the time we packed up, tightened our suspensions, fixed a broken hitch, and chatted with everyone, it was evening already. Gerry gave us a whole caribou leg before we left and we were very grateful for the good meat. We left Hornby Bay under overcast skies, knowing we would be traveling well into the night. After climbing a large hill we got a final look at Great Bear Lake. About 10 minutes later we crossed the tree line and cut a standing dead tree, which we strapped to our sled for emergency firewood. Winds howled and snow fell causing whiteout conditions as we crossed the Arctic Circle. It was almost dark and it was very difficult to follow the blown-over trail. The horizon was barley visible to the east and west but non- existent in front of us. We had left traditional Dene territory and were now in the realm of the Inuit.