We stop in Terlingua, a tiny tourist town on western edge of the park, and we all have migas for breakfast at the Los Jalapenos cafe. Funky town, in a western hippie border sort of way. Home of the World Chili Championship. There's a store attached to the cafe, and Tim asks the lady at the counter how she wound up there. "Well," she says, " I lived in an ambulance for a while, and followed a lot of Greatful Dead shows .…" She trails off, and we leave it at that.