Over the summer I was having dinner with my wife at a Jersey Shore seafood restaurant we'd never tried. One of their "specialties" is a New England bouillabaisse; a pot of steaming seafood broth loaded with shrimp, scallops, clams, peppers, potatoes, and fish. I bit, and when I asked what kind of fish was in the dish, I was told it was whatever the chef was serving that night. Cool. This was, after all, a restaurant with the bay lapping against the back deck. But when our meal arrived I was informed the fish of the day was tilapia. I didn't send it back, though I should have. Instead, I picked around the bland chunks and sulked. How dare place where you can smell the ocean when the door swings open serve me farm-raised white bread? Well, as it turns out I might be the crazy one, because a blind taste test judged by some high-end foodies suggests farmed salmon is far more delicious than wild-caught. Yeah, whatever.