Last week, I waded into the heart of hippie-dom with a trip to Boulder, Colo., where my girlfriend T. Rebel and I ate dinner at the locally famous Jax Fish House. After slurping just enough fresh Barcat oysters to stimulate my appetite, I made a meal out of crispy-skinned Colorado striper that wasn't too bad. T. Rebel's Columbia River steelhead was even better. And her calamari with mango-chili mojo and lime aioli was out of this world. I would go back just for that, and more oysters of course.