When it comes to using decoys to attract a wild turkey within shooting range, having a complete understanding of the big picture is essential. And it starts with the bird. Wild turkeys see in color. They’re credited with having vision as powerful as—if not more powerful than—8x binoculars. However, because their eyes are set far on the side of the head, a turkey’s vision is monocular, which means their depth perception is poor. This explains why turkeys often strut into spitting distance of a hunter sitting stone still against a tree. It also tells the story of why a turkey can bust you from 300 yards away if an errant move occurs.
In addition to turkey physiology, hormones greatly influence how a tom behaves. Early in the season, testosterone levels are at their height in mature toms. When testosterone levels are high, toms are very gullible. This is when they peck at the chrome bumper on your truck, gobble at their own reflection in a window, or come running to turkey decoys and sounds that leave veteran hunters shaking their heads in disbelief. But fooling a late-season gobbler is a completely different game.
Determining what decoys to use, if any, depends on several factors. Time of year, bird populations, and breeding phases all impact decoy selection. But nothing will give you a better idea of what decoys to set other than mimicking what you see in the field, whether from scouting, hunting, or using trail cams. Here's what I've learned about turkey behavior from monitoring over 130 trail cams across three states—and how it can help with your decoy setups.
1. Replicate Bird Behavior in Your Decoys
Over the past three seasons I’ve spent a lot of time targeting toms in wooded habitats, specifically, river bottoms and big timbered ridges where deer and elk thrive. Toms in these areas are leery, and aggressive calling and decoys can shut them down. This year, my trail cams revealed several hens preening under the cover of the trees. This was especially common early in the season when it was raining, and later in the season when it was hot. The hens sought the protection of the trees to manage their plumage. Many of them spent an hour or two in one spot, preening. For this reason, I've adjusted to using a preening hen decoy and an upright hen decoy when hunting wooded habitats.
Here's another example of some scouting intel. I recently caught a big tom on a trail camera. The mature bird stood in one place for 6 ½ hours. Daytime temperatures held in the high 50s, and the breeze was slight. The tom preened, slept, and didn’t move, no matter how many jakes passed by. It gobbled a few times, and based on what I’d been observing in the area weeks prior, I hypothesized the tom was tired from breeding and fighting. If I were to target that tom, a lone hen decoy and subtle hen yelps and purrs would be my approach. Aggressive calls or decoys might intimidate that bird. Understanding how birds behave in the field and implementing that into your decoy set to the best of your ability will pull more toms into range.
2. Understand Population Dynamics
I closely study nesting success in my hunting areas. During wet springs or when predation is high, hens often won’t have a successful brood until late August or September. I’ve even seen several poults in early October. This means the hens from these late-arriving hatches won’t usually breed for two springs because they’re not sexually mature. As a result, more hens will be visibly active all season long the following spring.
When a high hen-to-tom ratio occurs, it’s hard to beat a single hen decoy. I like positioning a standing hen decoy so it appears to be moving down a trail, away from the direction of an approaching tom. In wooded areas, a preening hen decoy and a standing hen decoy are a great combination. Toms are always looking for the opportunity to breed. For this reason, a hen decoy or a combination of hen decoys can be very effective.
In areas with high tom ratios, a hen and jake decoy can bring toms on the run. With other toms and jakes to contend with, mature gobblers can be very aggressive. For this reason, a hen and jake decoy can be hard to beat because it sends the message that there is a willing hen with a jake trying to make a move.
3. Pair Your Tom With a Hen
Seventeen seasons ago, when full-strut decoys first gained popularity, I filled multiple tags using a strutter and a hen decoy. I shared my success with a guide friend back home. He went 0 for five on his first attempts with a strutter decoy. That’s when we realized every one of his sets had been where a tom had been already coming to his calls, but suddenly came upon the dominant decoy, then immediately turned and ran. The toms weren't ready to encounter another solo gobbler. That's why it's crucial to pair the tom with a hen decoy.
Today, the full strut decoy and an upright hen are my buddy’s go-to decoys, and account for over 60 birds a season for his clients. He places them in open spaces, along timbered fringes, and in meadows and fields where toms can clearly see them from a distance. When they have a chance to survey the scene, they commit to a decoy set like this. Additionally, I’ve found consistent success using a strutter decoy with a real tail fan and wings. I situate the decoy on wooded trails with limited visibility where tom ratios are high, and when a new tom shows up in an area, especially one that’s vocal, colored-up, and searching. I’ve had better success with this decoy on sunny days than cold, rainy days.
4. Leave the Decoys at Home in Thick Cover
When hunting in thick cover, I rarely use a decoy, especially on windy days. Cover, particularly cover that sways in the wind, will put keen-eyed turkeys on full alert. Such habitat is perfect for hiding predators, and turkeys know it. In these situations, I’ve had many toms hang up once they’ve seen a decoy in thick cover. They’ll stop, often strut, infuse their heads with bright colors, and gobble in an attempt to pull the hen to them. I’d rather keep these toms on the move, searching for the source of the sounds, and coming closer to me.
5. Keep It Real
Several falls ago, I shot a hen turkey. I skinned it out, we ate it, and I dried and mounted it. I ordered a fake head, wire for the legs and neck, and a small hen form in a standing position. The mount leaves much to be desired, as I’m not a taxidermist. But it looks good enough. I’ve never had a tom turn from that decoy. It’s brought in hundreds of birds over the years, and if I had one decoy to use all season long, it’d be that mounted hen.
Now, if you don't have the ability or time to mount your own hen decoy, there are plenty of realistic decoy options on the market. Two of my favorite decoys are the Final Approach Live Jake with a flocked back and their new Live Breeder hen. After I filled my tags last season, I took these decoys into a river bottom on private land and photographed 11 different toms that came in to check out my new decoys (see above). One tom tried mounting the hen decoy for almost 2 hours. Other toms kicked, fought, and pecked at the jake decoy. If you can't mount a turkey, buy the most realistic-looking decoys you can afford.