Now he’s at the grill, basting a couple of dozen butterflied doves. The basting liquid, he explains, is a Thai-inspired vinaigrette: “Some sesame oil, cilantro, fish sauce, hoisin, garlic, ginger, and sesame seed.” This is the urban end of what Love calls his “urban cowboy cuisine,” in which he takes elements from the diverse culinary streams of Texas’s cities and applies them to some down-home proteins. After ferrying the butterflied doves off the grill with tongs, he arranges several dozen breasts over the fire. These have been coated with Love’s Badass Rub, a mixture of thyme, rosemary, chile powder, and other spices. They don’t linger long on the grill, about 90 seconds per side. The key to dove cookery, he says, is in the cooking itself: quick and vigilant, so the birds cook through but don’t veer off into dryness (which ushers in the slight liver-y taste we call gaminess). Doves are spectacularly lean, meaning the line between done and overdone can sometimes be measured in seconds.